Eating our way through Philadelphia

Truly the city of “Brotherly Love”- We found the city delightful and full of surprises! Philly has so much to offer. The city is of course so rich in American history! Being the history lover that I am, I had to post about that!

Once again, I find myself in a new city and Bob is very familiar with Philly since he lived and worked here many years ago.

We were home in early spring and he said, “Let’s go to Philadelphia!” When I asked him, “Why Philly?” His answer?? — “TO EAT!”

And did we eat! The goal – eat as much as we could in 4 days – with one caveat – we split everything. That way, we can eat twice as much, right?

First up – for breakfast – a bagel with whitefish salad. If you recall, I had my first taste of this in NYC, so I was prepared and was not disappointed. It was every bit as good at NYC!! Kudos to Chestnut Street Bagels! Perfectly done!

Whitefish salad on an everything bagel

Can Philly pizza beat out NYC? With such a huge population of Italians settling here so many years ago, I knew it would be good – and of course it was! First up was a visit to Aldo’s Pizzarama for Sicilian style pizza. I was drooling! This place has been around for years, and Bob remembered it well!

Sicilian Style Pizza

Are you full yet? Remember we are sharing everything…but we had to have a snack before dinner. A Philly pretzel! We rented a car so that Bob could drive to his old haunts; where he worked and lived. I love this old city.

When we go to a new city, we often ask the locals where their favorite places are to eat. We donned our sneakers and walked the city (had to burn those calories) and ended up at City Pizza in South Philly to share a slice of pie. We asked the owner where he would go for authentic Italian food in the area of South Philly. He asked us if we wanted large or small plates. When we told him all that we had eaten that day, he suggested a new place call Tankie’s Tavern, just around the corner. It was a little too early for dinner and yes, we were slightly stuffed, so we walked to Tankie’s for a drink and to check out the menu. It’s a new, young retro style place full of life! It has a good vibe and I would highly recomment it. We sat at the bar for drinks and bartender, James Catalfano, treated us like we were his only patrons – and the bar was full! Bob ordered a craft beer and shot of Jameson and I ordered a Martini . James engaged us in conversation and suggested we try his personal concoctions of banana infused Jameson and a strawberry infused martini – Delicious!!

Bartender James Catalfano
A Catalfano speciality – Strawberry infused martini

After our drinks and another walk around the city, we came back that evening for dinner. The staff is friendly and the service was over the top. The food? Not a dissaspointment either! The chef came out to our table for a chat- We dined on the Mussels Pei which was spicy and divine! We also had the Crab Gravy and Linguine. After dinner, James (the bartender) wanted us to try ‘his’ Limoncello – but not just any Limoncello – a Chocolate Limoncello – omg….it was like drinking a chocolate cloud! Delicous! The chef brough us Cannoli for dessert – the presentation was delightful! What an evening and what a treat. Prices? Very good!

Mussels Pei
Chocolate Limoncello
Cannoli

Next stop – a walk to Reading Terminal Market open since 1893! How do I discribe this plethora of fare? It’s a food court on steriods, it’s feast for the eyes and I would not have been able to decide what to eat except that Bob had a plan. After a walk-through, I had to have a Philly style roasted pork with broccoli rabe and sharp provolone cheese at Tommy Dinic’s. It’s a Philly favorite only second to a Philly cheesesteak. Hearty and delicious on the most perfect bread!! Since we split that sandwich, (oh my!), we moved on to the booth right next door, Hershel’s East Side Deli for a Corned Beef and Swiss on Jewish Rye and Matzo Ball soup! There was so much food in the 1/2 sandwich that we couldn’t eat it all, but at least we got a few bites and again, not a disapointment! Now, I know what all the fuss is about concerning Italian and Jewish food in Philly!!

And that….was breakfast! We knew that our day would be full at the Philadelphia Museum of Art and you can see our photos here. After a delightful day of admiring art it was time for……dinner!

This is why we came……

If there is one single food that stands out, that puts Philly on the food map, it’s the Philly Cheesesteak. Regions across the United States sell them but as I’ve learned they just aren’t the real deal. The bread is off, the addition of peppers is a mortal sin and the addition of the cheese at just the right time and how it’s layered or poured on is up for debate. Our choice for a cheesesteak was Jim’s Steaks – “wit wiz”, of course!

The Cheesesteak Wars!!!

“Rocky Balboa may be Philadelphia’s most celebrated fighter, but this city’s greatest rivalry is between two South Philly cheese-steak joints” . Read more about it here

You can google “Philly Cheesesteak Wars” and read scores of articles about the two. It’s hysterically funny – the two establishments are literally across the street from each other and both are jammed packed and bustling with activity. Which one is better? The one you are eating!

…..But……before dinner, we rested our feet at a sidewalk cafe that was brimming over with people enjoying themselves after work…..I enjoyed this so much! Devon Seafood Grill is across the street from a park, so we could watch people and traffic as the day was wrapping up. We met two delightful local ladies sitting next to us who shared their lifelong stories of Philly while we drank cocktails and enjoyed delectable raw oysters.

Watermelon Martini
Drink special of the day and craft beef
Oysters at $1 each – so we ate 2 dozen!

Dinner ~

Bellini Grill – Authentic and modern Italian cuisine
Dinner at Bellini Grill

A friend from back home suggested we visit Bellini Grill. The atmosphere was ‘old towne’ and relaxing. The service was very good and the food excellent. It was not crowded and I do hope the locals of Philly don’t let this gem disappear.

Scallop special for the evening
Bronzini – Italian trout
Table side deboning of the Bronzini
Lemoncello tasting – all amazing!

I simply could not come to Philly and not try an Italian sub at Angelo’s located in South Philly – another savory meal – split in half of course! Excellent!

The Italian – Genoa salami, cotegina, hot capicola, imported ham and mild provolone. Served with hot cherry peppers

We spent the day in the Italian Market and what a treat it was! We walked from shop to shop and tasted our way through the many markets. We had our senses teased at Claudio and Talluto’s. I’ll be ordering online!

The shops of all shops is Di Bruno Bros in the market. Not only was their selection quite extensive but their service was over the top! We were treatd like the only people in the store! Samples and suggestions and help of all kind! I watched as the workers served their patrons and treated them like family!

This! Ricotta di Limone – It’s like cheesecake but it’s cheese baked with sugar and lemons. Perfect for breakfast, dessert or teatime!

Di Burno Bro’s sells cool things like black garlic molasses, really good white balsamic, breads and cheeses galore, smoked maple syrup, teas and herbs. It’s worth the trip!

A much needed coffee break in the Italian Market at Anthony’s.

It’s not a snow-cone or a shaved ice or a sno-ball or a slushy….it’s water ice! I was born in Louisiana and grew up going to my grandparents house where my sister and I were treated with snow-cones, finely crushed ice with a syrupy flavored fruit concoction poured over the ice. Water ice is something different – I didn’t crunch the ice. When it hit my tongue it dissappread like ‘water’. It was refreshing and not too sweet! I got two flavors; lemon and cherry. Bob had cherry and pineapple .

When in Rome…..

We like to ask the residents of a city where they like to eat. We asked the Italian concierge of our hotel where he would eat. Without hesitation he said , ” Marra’s . I go there when I want food that tastes like my Nana makes it.” What more would we want? Again, we were not dissapointed! It’s a fourth generation family owned and operated restaurant. The chef/owner came out to talk with us and after a full meal, we asked to try their Penne Alla Vodka. It was really good!

Meatballs the size of your fist!
Zuppa Tuscano
Seafood Pasta – Mangia!
Penne Alla Vodka

Last, but certainly not least and I might have to say by far my most favorite memory of Philly was a new treat for me. Bob told me about tomato pie. I’ve made heirloom tomato pie with a pastry crust and sliced tomatoes and ricotta cheese. We’ve watched Diners, Drive-in’s and Dives and I knew when we got to Philly, I’d have to try one!

A Philly Tomato Pie is only found in a bakery. Sacrone’s Bakery was just perfect! Oh my do I wish I could live close to a bakery like this. I would walk every day and pick up fresh bread and rolls and of course, I’d bring home tomato pie!

Tomatoe pie – that crispy, chewy fresh baked bread with a slightly sweet tomato sauce and some sprinkled parmesan reggiano. omg. So simple. So delicious!

We sat out in the sun on a Saturday morning before our flight and ate tomato pie for breafast. Can it get any better than this?? I don’t think so. Bob makes my world just about perfect, I’d say.

** now that I’m home, I’m on a quest to find and make tomato pie like this. When I do, I’ll share the recipe! So, keep checking in! **

Well, that was breakfast….so lunch time hit while we were at the airport. Well, damn, we didn’t hit all the possible Philly Cheesesteak possibilities. We had been told that the Tony Luke’s in the airport was as good as it gets, so why not? Another ‘split’ of course!

That wraps up a thoroughly enjoyable trip to my new favorite foodie city – Philadelphia – I think I ate a million calories but I also walked a million miles, so maybe that will balance itself out! Until next time ~~

~ Kat

It’s the only way to fly

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